crochet:: too many WiPs

I am one of those people that if left to my own devices with too many irons in the fire, I am overwhelmed and do not function well.  I have been left to my own devices too much lately.

Too many WiPs and nothing finished.  AAAAARGH!

These are merely some of the works in progress I currently have on the hook.

(I also have some up-cycled bracelets that are kinda cute and I will share them a little later.)

Hex-in-a-square…all I can say is yuk.  Not liking it so much.

If it really becomes the flip side of the hawaiian granny pillow, it will always be the backside, hidden against the couch.

I do not excel a these hexagons.  I don’t see myself making this one again.  Buh-bye pattern…

As for the little pink squiggles…

those are iPad sleeves made with my super-simple laptop sleeve pattern.

iPad sleeve tip::

if you do not own said iPad, merely cut a piece of strong cardboard (7 1/4” x 9 1/4”) as a template

I am trying a new-to-me brand of cotton yarn, and I am quite impressed with the quality.

It’s Lion Brand Cotton Ease.

Good stuff.

So, on that note I am off to try to finish something.

Typing hands can’t work a hook…and my friend’s iPad is getting cold.

Thanks for stopping by 🙂

Edited to add::  

I’m adding this by popular demand and for all the nice people who have pinned my stuff on Pinterest, here are some directions to get you started.  Thanks for visiting 🙂

3-D hexagon::

This is based on a vintage pattern, and is much smaller than my photos above. By all means, please feel free to share tips in the comments if you find a way to make it larger.  I’m getting tons visitors from Pinterest who would love the know your secrets if you can get it to lay flat after the 9th row.

pattern notes::

* US terms

* fptr = front post triple crochet

* ch after joining counts as first stitch throughout pattern

* for multi-color version use 2 rows per color, change colors every other row

Ch 3, join with sl st to make ring or use a magic ring (my preferred method for this one)

Rnd 1 – Ch 3, work 11 dc in ring, join with sl st (12 dc)

Rnd 2 – Ch 3, dc in same st, then 2 dc in each dc, join with sl st (24 dc)

Rnd 3 – Ch 1, * 2 sc in next dc, sc in next dc, skip next dc but work 1 fptr around corresponding dc 2 rows below, sc in next dc. repeat from * 5 more times, join with sl st (30 sc & 6 fptr)

Rnd 4 – Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 3 sts, * 2 dc in each of the next 2 sts for corner, dc in each of next 3 sts.  Repeat from * 4 more times, join with sl st (42 dc)

Rnd 5 – Ch 1, * sc in next dc, 2 sc in next dc for corner, sc in each of next 2 dc, fptr around each of next 3 sts 2 rows below.  Repeat from * 5 more times, join with sl st (30 sc & 18 fptr)

Rnd 6 – Ch 3, dc in next st, * 3 dc in next st for corner, dc in each of next 7 sts.  Repeat from * 5 more times ending last repeat with dc in each of last 5 sts, join sl st (60 dc)

Rnd 7 – Ch 1, sc in each of next 2 dc, * 3 sc in next dc for corner, sc in each of next 2 dc, fptr around each of next 5 sts 2 rows below, sc in each of next 2 dc.  Repeat from * 5 more times ending with 5 fptr, join with sl st (42 sc & 30 fptr)

Rnd 8 – Ch 3, dc in each of next 2 sts, * 3 dc in next st for corner, dc in each of next 11 sts.  Repeat from * 5 more times, ending last repeat with dc in last 8 sts, join with sl st (84 dc)

Rnd 9 – Ch 1, sc in each of next 3 dc, * 3 sc in next dc form corner, sc in each of next 3 dc, fptr around each of next 7 sts 2 rows below, sc in each of next 3 dc.  Repeat from * 5 more times, ending last repeat with 7 fptr, join with sl st (54 sc & 42 fptr)

Rnd 10 – Ch 1, sc in each st around working 3 sc in corners, join with sl st, finish off (108 sc)

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madly, passionately in love with yarn

25 thoughts on “crochet:: too many WiPs”

  1. I love this pillow, are you able to give me the pattern for this or do I have to buy it from you. It really looks nice, I would like to try this one. Please let me know if I can get the pattern for this pillow design.

    Thank you and have a great day crocheting.



  2. Sorry, but this one is not a yarnchick40 original. I found this pattern in a vintage book, and changed it as I went along. I tossed out my notes as well because things went horribly awry when I tried to make the hexagon fit into a square. If I should ever re-visit trying to make it work – I will post it for free.


    1. I appreciate that you like it, but I’m sorry I am not the owner of the pattern. It was found in a vintage book, and I tried to change it, quite UN-successfully. It ended up all wonky and ripply and it turned into a mess that was neither a hexagon nor a square. I will try to type up the old directions for the real one and post them here as an edit. I can email you when I get it done. Happy hooking 🙂


  3. I am the same way to many irons in the fire, but eventually I make myself finish everything before I start all over again…lol….keep up your good work you do great….


  4. G’day Lisa
    Thank you so much for leaving your 3D hexagon pattern because as soon as I saw it on F/B I loved it… funny how somethings grab us only not to be what we were wanting when we get started but I’m most grateful you put it up for us that love it… have yourself a great autumn… ~<3~


  5. Your post is a long time ago now, but I still find this pattern bouncing around Pinterest so I thought I’d comment anyway incase it helps someone.

    I think maybe one reason it won’t stay flat is that your ftpb are too short. I can’t quite tell from the photos but it looks like maybe the front post triple crochets that sit above others below, might have been worked around the ftpb in the row 3 below rather than the sc in the row 2 below so the new ftpb are trying to stretch too far and hence pulling the hexagon out of shape. Once I stopped doing that, mine improved. If that is not what you have been doing, other ways to solve the problem would be to lengthen the ftpb by working them more loosely, or change them to front post treble or extended front post triple instead.

    If you work the dcs in the next row above the ftpb, through both layers of the rows below (ie. the dc two rows below AND the ftpb of the row below) you will also “use up” some of the length of the ftbp, so only work through the top layer, or lengthen your new ftpb as above.

    There also seems to be too many increases compared to a normal hexagon. You would normally increase by 2 stitches at each corner for a dc hexagon, but this pattern also increases by 2 in the sc row. I guess this is to compensate for the 3D affect, but as the hexagon gets bigger, past the 9th row, the extra increase becomes less necessary and will gradually build up and make the work ruffle. So you could try increasing by only 1 extra stitch at each corner in the sc rows in these later rows – maybe from row 7 onward. I haven’t tried this last idea as it would change the stitch numbers in the rows above, and I don’t have time to think that through. I’m going to try and cheat by blocking it stretched out a bit instead.


  6. I made one that sits flat! I think rows 7 and 9 have too many increases.

    SC rows should only increase by 1 at each corner. You have to fiddle it around a bit because there won’t always be a middle stitch between the raised ones to work into. The beginning rows are written correctly – the problem starts in row 7.

    If the following is hard to understand I’ll write it out row by row or post my diagram if it will help someone. But only if there is someone out there reading this….

    As you work outwards, on SC rows (odd numbered), increase by working 2sc into the centre dc between the raised ones. If there are an even number of stitches between the raised ones, pick one of the centre stitches and work 2sc into it. Next time there is a row with the same problem, work into the other side of the middle. On DC rows (even numbered) increase by two at each corner on DC rows – either work 3 dc into the centre sc below when there are an odd number of stitches, or work 2dc into each of the two middle sc, when there are an even number.

    The downside of this is that the area between the raised sections grows more slowly, so the raised stitches predominate. The upside is that when it sits flat the contrast looks even better.

    Make sure you check your ftpb stitches are correct as well.


    1. I’m new to crocheting…the only pattern I know is the granny square just a simple one…right now I am trying to get a grasp on a granny square that starts with a circle….frustrating lol….but I was wondering something…I have been writing down different patterns for future projects as I get better and there was something that is in the instructions that I don’t understand…it is on an intermediate pattern and I just can’t wrap my head around it….it’s to the point to where I might not even attempt to ever make this afghan because I don’t understand it…and no one else around me crochets or they just don’t want to help……here is the step I do not understand….mind you I am not doing this right now it’s just a future idea a gift for my mother for the future….*draw up a long loop in next ch -1 sp 3 rows below,yo and through 2 lps-long sc made, sk next ch -1 sp (behind long sc),science next sc,sc in next ch -1 sp,sc in next sc;rep from * to last 2 sts,long sc in next ch -1 sp 3 rows below,skip next ch -1 sp,sc in last 1, turn…….the parts that I do not understand are the long sc and how that is made and what does it mean three rows below?…….help me please to understand….this afghan in so pretty and I love to learn new things…

      Liked by 1 person

  7. Thank you so much…I surely didn’t want this to steer me away from crocheting…I enjoy it so much…and thank you it very much appreciated..have a good day

    Liked by 1 person

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